The Ghost City: Riding Hanoi and Saigon During Day 1 of Tet

Updated 20/03/26
empty streets around hoan kiem lake at tet

Vietnam’s traffic is legendary, but on the first day of Tet, the music stops. The smog clears and the cities fall into a deep slumber, offering a once-a-lifetime ride through wide-open boulevards.

Here is your guide to experiencing the quiet. (For advice on where everyone else went—and how to ride safely there—consult The Ultimate Guide to Riding Vietnam During Tet).

Contents

The Great Exodus (Why It Happens)

riders stuck in traffic trying to get out of the city for the holiday

To understand the silence, you must understand the cultural gravity of Tet. It is not just a holiday; it is a homecoming.

The Urban Evacuation

In the week leading up to Tet, the population of major cities drops by nearly 50%. Millions of workers, students, and officials pack their bags (and their bikes) to return to their ancestral hometowns in the provinces. This mass exodus drains the lifeblood—traffic—out of the metropolis. By New Year’s Eve, the cities are left to the “true” locals: the families who have lived there for generations.

The Sacred Silence of Day 1

The stillness peaks on the morning of Mung 1 (The First Day of Tet). Culturally, this is a time for family. People stay indoors to perform rituals at their ancestors’ altars and enjoy the first meal of the year. No shops are open. No markets are buzzing. The streets are abandoned because, traditionally, leaving the house too early without a specific destination is seen as wandering—a bad omen for the year.

The "Clean Slate" Atmosphere

The physical atmosphere of the city changes. With millions of exhausts turned off, the air quality improves dramatically. In Hanoi, the winter mist hangs low over the lakes without being cut by fumes. In Saigon, the morning sun hits the colonial architecture without the haze. It feels like stepping back in time to the 1990s, before the motorcycle boom took over.

A Fleeting Window

This window is small. By the afternoon of Day 1, families begin to emerge to visit relatives. By Day 2, the pagodas are crowded. By Day 3, the taxis are back. But that first morning—from sunrise (6:00 AM) until noon—is pure magic. It is a fleeting moment of tranquility that you must wake up early to catch.

The Rider’s Privilege

Most tourists are asleep or stuck in their hotels, thinking there is nothing to do. But you have a key to the city: a motorbike. While walking the empty streets is nice, riding them is euphoric. You can appreciate the layout, the architecture, and the flow of the city without the stress of survival.

The Melancholic Beauty

Long bien bridge empty and quiet during tet

Hanoi during Tet is often cold, misty, and incredibly atmospheric. The ancient capital wears its age well in the silence.

The Old Quarter Grid

Usually, the Old Quarter is a claustrophobic maze where pedestrians dodge scooters. On Tet morning, you can ride down Hang Gai (Silk Street) or Hang Dao and actually look up at the architecture. You will notice the French shutters, the mossy tiled roofs, and the ancient banyan trees that are usually obscured by commercial signage and traffic jams.

Hoan Kiem Lake

The road circling Hoan Kiem Lake is the heart of the city. On a normal weekend, it is pedestrianized; on weekdays, it is gridlocked. On Tet morning, it is open to bikes but empty. Riding a slow, smooth loop around the lake, watching the red The Huc Bridge reflect in the still water, is a Zen-like experience.

The Long Bien Bridge

This historic, rusted bridge is typically a chaotic stream of commuters. During Tet, it becomes a lonely iron spine stretching across the Red River. You can stop your bike in the middle of the bridge (something usually impossible) to take photos of the river and the banana plantations below without fearing for your life.

The Flag Tower and Ba Dinh

The wide, Soviet-style boulevards around the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the Flag Tower are built for parades, but usually filled with buses. Riding these massive, empty avenues gives you a sense of scale and grandeur that is lost in the daily crush.

The Scent of Incense

As you ride through Hanoi’s narrow alleys, take a deep breath. The city doesn’t smell of gasoline; it smells of burning incense and wood smoke from the Banh Chung boiling pots. It is the olfactory definition of the Vietnamese New Year.

Saigon (HCMC) - The Sunny Open Road

Cho Lon in sai gon quiet at tet

Ho Chi Minh City is the engine of Vietnam’s economy—fast, loud, and aggressive. Seeing it stopped is perhaps even more shocking than seeing Hanoi quiet.

District 1 Landmarks

The area around the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Central Post Office is usually a parking lot of tourist buses and taxis. On Tet morning, you can park your bike right in front of the cathedral for the perfect photo. The colonial brickwork glows in the Southern sun, and the silence allows you to hear the birds in the park—a rarity in D1.

The Ben Thanh Roundabout

The roundabout in front of Ben Thanh Market is famous for being a “circle of death” for hesitant riders. Conquering it usually requires nerves of steel. On Tet, you can ride through it in calm, wide circles. The market itself is shuttered, offering a rare view of the building’s structure without the clutter of stalls.

The Thu Thiem Tunnel/Bridge

Cross the river to the Thu Thiem side. Riding back over the Ba Son Bridge (Thu Thiem 2) gives you a panoramic view of the District 1 skyline. Usually, you can’t stop here. On Tet, you can pull over (safely) and admire the modern skyscrapers rising out of the quiet riverbank.

The Chinatown (Cho Lon) Difference

While District 1 is quiet, District 5 (Cho Lon) has a different vibe. The Chinese-Vietnamese community takes the “luck” rituals very seriously. While traffic is light, the pagodas (like Thien Hau) are engulfed in clouds of incense coils. Riding from the silence of D1 to the spiritual haze of D5 is a fantastic contrast.

The "Flower Street" (Nguyen Hue)

Note that Nguyen Hue Walking Street is transformed into a massive floral display (“Flower Street”). It is pedestrian-only, but riding alongside it on the parallel streets gives you a glimpse of the colorful elaborate statues and millions of flowers without the jostling crowds if you go early enough.

Photography & Documentation

1000 women parade in ao dais

If you are a content creator or just want amazing Instagram photos, this is your “Golden Hour”—literally and figuratively.

The "Lonely Rider" Shot

The Holy Grail of Tet photography is the “Lonely Rider” shot: you, your bike, and a famous landmark with absolutely zero people in the background. To get this, you need to be out by 6:30 AM or 7:00 AM. By 9:00 AM, the first families will start appearing in their Ao Dai for photoshoots.

Wide Angles Work Again

Usually, shooting wide-angle in Vietnam is messy because the frame is cluttered with random vehicles. On Tet, you can use wide lenses to capture the leading lines of the empty streets and the geometry of the buildings.

Drone Opportunities (With Caution)

While flying drones in cities is generally restricted and risky, the lack of crowds reduces the safety hazard. However, be extremely careful near government buildings (especially in Hanoi near the Mausoleum) where it is strictly illegal. Stick to the rivers or open parks.

Capturing the Colors

Look for the red. Every house will have a red flag flying, and the streets are lined with red banners. Against the grey sky of Hanoi or the blue sky of Saigon, this red “pop” is visually striking and signifies the festive spirit.

The "Ao Dai" Parade

Later in the morning, head to the major lakes or cathedrals. You will see thousands of locals dressed in their finest traditional dress (Ao Dai). It is a colorful fashion show. While the “Ghost City” vibe fades, the cultural portrait opportunities begin.

The Safety Reality Check

police breath test a driver for alcohol level at tet

It is easy to get lulled into a false sense of security by the empty roads. Do not let your guard down. The “Ghost City” has its own specific dangers.

The "Super Mario" Effect

Because the roads are empty, the few people who are driving tend to drive very fast. Young locals on modified bikes often treat the empty boulevards as race tracks during Tet. Always check your mirrors and intersections, even if it looks deserted.

The Red Light Runners

Traffic lights in Vietnam are often treated as “suggestions” on normal days. On Tet, they are frequently ignored completely. Do not assume that a green light means you are safe. Look left, look right, and look left again before crossing any intersection.

Drunk Driving (The Real Threat)

Tet is a drinking holiday. “Happy New Year” toasts start at 8:00 AM. By the afternoon, there is a significantly higher percentage of intoxicated drivers on the road than usual. If you see a rider swerving or driving erratically, give them a massive amount of space.

Unexpected Obstacles

With the streets empty, people use the road for other things. You might turn a corner and find a family playing badminton in the middle of the street, or a neighborhood party that has spilled out onto the asphalt. Ride at a cruising speed, not a racing speed.

Gas Stations

While major petrol stations stay open, smaller ones may close. Don’t wait until your tank is empty. If you see an open station (Petrolimex is your best bet), fill up.

FAQ

The peak “Ghost City” time is from 6:00 AM to 11:00 AM on the 1st Day of the Lunar New Year. The afternoon of Day 1 gets busier. Day 2 and 3 are relatively quiet compared to normal days, but the absolute “dead” silence is only on the morning of Day 1.

Yes! Coffee culture never sleeps. While street stalls close, major chains (like Highlands or The Coffee House) and many trendy independent cafes stay open to serve the youth. In fact, going for coffee on Day 1 is a tradition for young friends. Expect a surcharge on the menu.

Not at all. It feels peaceful and cleansing. It is a rare moment where you can hear the wind in the trees and see the architecture without the visual pollution of traffic. It feels like the city is taking a deep breath.

Usually, no. Most rental shops (including us!) will be closed on Day 1 so our staff can be with their families. You need to pick up your rental bike at least 2 days before Tet and keep it for the duration of the holiday.

If you are just riding, wear your safety gear. But if you plan to stop and walk around heavily populated photo spots (like the Cathedral or Lake), dress respectfully. It is a formal holiday. You will feel underdressed in dirty backpacker shorts when everyone else is in silk gowns and suits.

Riding Through a Landscape of Luck

Tet is not just a holiday; it is a complete reset of the country’s rhythm. The chaos of the city melts into the quiet of the countryside, and the usual noise of commerce is replaced by the sounds of family celebrations.

For the motorbike rider, it presents challenges, certainly. But it also presents an empty open road, a festive atmosphere, and a chance to see Vietnam in its most authentic, joyous state. Riding through the silent, empty streets of Hanoi or Saigon on the first day of Tet is a surreal and wonderful experience—a photographer’s delight and a rider’s dream.

Ready to see the cities like never before?

Royal Enfield Himalayan motorcycle rental

Engine Type

air-cooled, single cylinder, SOHC

Displacement

411 cc

Bore X Stroke

78 mm x 86 mm

Ignition

TCI

Fuel System

fuel injection

Compression Ratio

9.5:1

Starter

electric

Gearbox

5-speed

Front Suspension

telescopic forks; stanchion diameter 41 mm

Rear Suspension

linkage-type monoshock

Front Brakes

single disc brake, diameter 300 mm, 2-piston floating caliper

Rear Brakes

single disc brake, diameter 240 mm, single-piston floating caliper

Front Tyres

90/90 – 21

Rear Tyres

120/90 – 17

Wheelbase

1465 mm

Seat Height

800 mm

Ground Clearance

220 mm

Kerb Weight

199 kg

Fuel Capacity

15 litres

Dimensions

2190 mm (L) x 840 mm (W) x 1360 mm (H)

Daily

Total

Rider (CRF 300)

$220

Pillion

$120

Damage Waiver

$20

Private Room

$40

Support Vehicle*

$150

* All prices given are in USD and apply per rider except for the support vehicle. The support vehicle is free for groups of 7 or more, otherwise the cost is shared across the group. 

Daily

Total

Rider (XR 150)

Rider (CRF 300)

Rider (CB 500X)

Rider (Himalayan 400)

$220

Rider (GS 1250)

Pillion

$120

Damage Waiver

$20

Private Room

$40

Support Vehicle*

$150

* All prices given are in USD and apply per rider except for the support vehicle. The support vehicle is free for groups of 7 or more, otherwise the cost is shared across the group. 

Daily

Total

Jeep (1 PAX)

$210

Jeep (2 PAX)

$120

Jeep (3 PAX)

$90

Jeep (4+ PAX)

$80

Rider (Easy Rider)

$115

Rider (Self-Drive)

$105

Private Room

$15

* Our jeep tour prices operate on a sliding scale. The larger your group, the less each person pays—each member of your group will pay the lowest daily rate shown. For example, if you have a group of 4 or more, you will each only pay $80/day. All prices are given in USD.

BMW 1250 GS

Engine Type

air-liquid cooled, twin cylinder, DOHC, boxer engine

Displacement

1255 cc

Bore X Stroke

102.5 mm x 76 mm

Ignition

FI

Fuel System

fuel injection

Compression Ratio

12.5:1

Starter

electric

Gearbox

6-speed

Front Suspension

BMW Motorrad Telelever; stanchion diameter 37 mm

Rear Suspension

single-sided swing arm with BMW Motorrad Paralever

Front Brakes

dual disc brake, floating brake discs, diameter 305 mm, 4-piston radial calipers

Rear Brakes

single disc brake, diameter 276 mm, double-piston floating caliper

Front Tyres

120/70 R19

Rear Tyres

170/60 R17

Wheelbase

1514 mm

Seat Height

850 mm

Ground Clearance

790 mm

Kerb Weight

249 kg

Fuel Capacity

20 litres

Dimensions

2207 mm (L) x 952.5mm (W) x 1430 mm (H)

Honda XR 150 motorcycle rental

Engine Type

air cooled, OHC, single cylinder

Displacement

149 cc

Bore X Stroke

57.3 mm x 57.8 mm

Ignition

CDI

Fuel System

20 mm piston valve carburettor

Compression Ratio

9.5:1

Starter

electric with kick starter backup

Gearbox

5-speed

Front Suspension

telescopic fork, 180 mm axle travel

Rear Suspension

single shock swing arm, 150 mm axle travel

Front Brakes

dual piston caliper, 240 mm disc

Rear Brakes

mechanical drum

Front Tyres

90/90 19

Rear Tyres

110/90 17

Wheelbase

1362 mm

Seat Height

825 mm

Ground Clearance

243 mm

Kerb Weight

129 kg

Fuel Capacity

12 litres

Dimensions

2091 mm (L) x 811 mm (W) x 1125 mm (H)

Honda CB 500X motorcycle rental

Engine Type

liquid cooled parallel-twin four stroke

Displacement

470 cc

Bore X Stroke

67 mm x 66.8 mm

Ignition

PGMI – FI

Fuel System

fuel injection

Compression Ratio

10.7:1

Starter

electric

Gearbox

6-speed

Front Suspension

41 mm SFF-BP USD Forks

Rear Suspension

Prolink Mono with 5 stage pre load adjuster

Front Brakes

dual 296 mm discs with 4 piston calipers; ABS

Rear Brakes

240 mm disc; ABS

Front Tyres

110/80R19M/C (59H)

Rear Tyres

160/60R17M/C

Wheelbase

1445 mm

Seat Height

830 mm

Ground Clearance

180 mm

Kerb Weight

199 kg

Fuel Capacity

17.7 litres

Dimensions

2,155 mm (L) x 830 mm (W) x 1,410 mm (H)

Honda CRF 300 motorcycle rental

Engine Type

single cylinder, DOHC, liquid cooled

Displacement

286 cc

Bore X Stroke

76 mm x 63 mm

Ignition

Full Transistor Digital

Fuel System

PGM-FI electronic fuel injection

Compression Ratio

10.7:1

Starter

electric

Gearbox

5-speed

Front Suspension

43 mm telescopic upside down

Rear Suspension

Prolink Mono with 5 stage pre load adjuster

Front Brakes

256 mm disc, 2 piston caliper

Rear Brakes

220 mm disc, single piston caliper

Front Tyres

80/100 21

Rear Tyres

120/80 18

Wheelbase

1455 mm

Seat Height

880 mm

Ground Clearance

285 mm

Kerb Weight

142 kg

Fuel Capacity

7.8 litres

Dimensions

2230 mm (L) x 820 mm (W) x 1200 mm (H)